(CNN) — Turkey is the last stop of one of the world’s most popular train journeys, the Orient Express. But there is another journey – Toku Express or Eastern Express in English – that makes the country the best train destination in the world.
Historically a passenger train between Ankara and Kurz, this formation has gone viral among Turkish influencers across the East in recent years for its stunning scenery, full of unbeatable treasures.
Perry Romo, a travel influencer who has lived in Turkey for more than a decade, notes that “the train was already very popular among local and Turkish travelers, but unknown among foreign tourists.”
In response to growing demand, passenger service became a tourist route in 2019. Lasting more than 30 hours, the sleeper train travels 1,310 kilometers (814 miles) from the bustling capital Ankara to the sometimes misty wonderland of Kars.
However, getting tickets is very difficult. Travelers say they sell out within minutes.
Toku Express passengers (Credit: OZAN KOSE/AFP via Getty Images)
“The trick is to check the website after midnight and buy when it’s updated,” Romo said.
Turkish travel agencies often buy large quantities of tickets to resell to passengers, guaranteeing their customers a seat on the train, which is why, according to locals, tickets sell out very quickly. Individual tickets can only be purchased up to a month in advance, making them a coveted gift for the few who receive them.
Leaving the capital
At first glance, Ankara may seem less glamorous than the better-known Istanbul, but the country’s political center is a worthy destination in its own right.
Major sites include the Ataturk Mausoleum, the final resting place of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founding father of modern Turkey.
Passengers in the dining room of the Toku Express through Eastern Turkey. (Credit: OZAN KOSE/AFP via Getty Images)
The campus is divided into four parts. Highlights include the Peace Park, a cobbled Turkish flag surrounded by a flowerbed, and the Ceremonial Plaza leading to the Hall of Honor, which houses Ataturk’s mausoleum.
Although Ankara experienced rapid growth after becoming the country’s new capital overnight in 1923, a certain historical charm can still be found in its old neighborhoods.
Ulus is the old part of the city, where there are Roman ruins, well-preserved paths and even an ancient castle, perched on a hill that offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Inside the ulus is Sanat Sokaki, or Street of Arts, a stretch of restored Ottoman houses that have been converted into cafes and lead to courtyards filled with stalls selling Ottoman-era handicrafts and souvenirs.
For a more contemporary experience, head to Sem Modern, a new art gallery that hosts global exhibitions in a restored train station. Cultural events here vary from film screenings to group yoga sessions and design markets.
Travelers often decorate their rooms with lights and candles. (Mustafa Kamasi/Anatolia Agency/Getty Images)
“An Impressive Magnificence”
The Toku Express departs in the early afternoon, and as it pulls away from Ankara’s art deco train station, the view out the window quickly changes from sprawling metropolis to panoramic vistas.
The sleeping cabins are equipped with two single bunk beds that can be converted into seats during the day, a mini-fridge and a sink. Passengers often decorate their cabins with lights and candles.
According to Romo, it’s “a great way to enjoy the beautiful scenery in a comfortable way”.
Early the next morning, the train arrives at the small town of Ilic. The canyon is home to an impressive Stone Road that clings to the side of the canyon when it’s not sinking into one of its 38 tunnels or taking terrifying curves.
The train traverses the vast landscape of eastern Turkey. (Ozan Kose/AFP/Getty Images)
Despite its dangerous reputation, the road continues to attract tourists with its stunning scenery. It offers spectacular cliffs and steep valleys, with the Euphrates flowing ever below.
The train then descends further east into the heart of Anatolia. Minnesota native Neta Kalpan, a resident of the Black Sea coastal area of Trabzon, who is used to harsh snowy winters, says she didn’t realize how big, flat and cold Turkey can be before taking the train.
However, he describes the landscape as “interesting, especially for its immensity”.
“I tried to take videos out of the windows,” but “I felt like I couldn’t capture what it felt like to actually see it,” she says.
The final destination is Cars. (uchar/E+/Getty Images)
The ultimate goal
In the evening, the train arrives at Erzurum. Romo says it was “without a doubt one of the best experiences” he’s had in Turkey because of the city’s rich “history, culture and extraordinary cuisine.”
Erzurum is home to many types of local cuisine, the most famous being Cag Kebab. The lamb is marinated in onions, salt and pepper for about 12 hours, then placed in a pan, wrapped in warm flat bread or eaten straight from the grill.
After Erzurum, Toku Express has only a few hours left to reach its final destination, Kars.
Famous for its stunning winter landscape, its name comes from the Turkish word for snow. The city is known for its unique architecture, which dates back to the days when it was part of the Russian Empire.
Istanbul-based lawyer Umm Altunas compares visiting eastern Turkey to going to a “completely different country” from the European West. “The East is home to many different cultures,” he says, such as the Kurds, Armenians and Assyrians.
An example is the medieval city of Ani, the former capital of the ancient Kingdom of Armenia. A short drive from Kars are majestic ruins dating back 1,600 years and open to tourists. The vast walls and well-preserved chapels, overlooking a deep valley, offer visitors a journey back in time.
Although the eastern parts of Turkey attract fewer tourists, locals are often eager to welcome visitors with traditional Turkish hospitality.
One of the reasons Kaplan likes to live in eastern Turkey, he says, is because “it’s rewarding to be around people who love where they’re from.”
He says he doesn’t want to disparage Istanbul: “It’s easy to be proud of a place that everyone agrees is one of the most amazing cities in the world.”
But do you embrace the high traffic? “That’s what feels special.”
