Paris, Jan 22 (EFE) .- Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the Spanish firm Loewe, looks at the coming decade with a positivism that today he wanted to pour into his autumn-winter 2022/23 men’s collection, in which he explored the limits of the virtual world and played with the technology that it has elegantly introduced into clothing.
Dozens of colored ribbons, hung like flags, welcomed the guests at the Paris Tennis Club stadium, where Anderson wanted to recreate an atmosphere of hope and optimism, in an installation created by artists Joe McShea and Edgar Mosa.
The first models came out on the catwalk with a mesh that covered their entire body with lights, which seemed to come from inside the body. But what Anderson proposed was not pure futurism, since he successfully introduced LEDs in the details of coats, in the lapels of trench coats or in the waistband of trousers.
“I feel like we’re going into a period where clothes have to be able to compete with non-reality. I also liked this idea of sharing something almost spiritual, as if the light came from within you,” Anderson explained to the press. Behind the scenes.
The brand followed in the footsteps of the acclaimed women’s collection, presented in September in Paris, in what was the brand’s first in-person show since March 2020.
This new discourse that Anderson is exploring in his collections speaks of reality and the increasingly present virtual world, which tries to anchor the day to day with insignificant objects, such as a steel drain filter -yes, the one for the sink and the shower -, which in this collection becomes a brooch and pattern motif.
“We have to think about what the role of clothing will be in an increasingly digital world. This collection is about looking at the mundane and making it decorative, about the evolution of the wardrobe in a context of suppressing gender boundaries, about reviewing the classic garments…”, he added.
In the latest women’s collection, in which she sculpted broken eggs and nail polish as if they were shoe heels, the pop combination was a critical success, while today the public also seemed amused by these small unexpected details in a house that is a benchmark of elegance and quality.
This revision of the classics was seen in the sailor shirts, structured on the inside with voluminous plates in the shape of giant hearts. The jeans were complemented with wire belts in which a word like a friendly “Hello” is written, and the bags became wide ankle boots.
Also intriguing were the undershirts that, illustrated with photographs of the models wearing them, seemed to reveal a double identity, an inner world protected from what is shown on the web.
Loewe did not leave out one of the garments from the men’s wardrobe, each of them modernized with lights, drawings or inlays of metal pieces. He also remodeled the tailored coat, to which he included a trouser waistband as if they were pockets, adding new volume at the hip.
Knitted jumpers are transformed into gloves with bows that brush the floor while handbags are seashells illuminated by lights.
Also notable among the accessories were the “Tote” type bags, in nappa leather with holes, and a tall, rectangular Amazon, while the famous Flamenco handbag, one of the firm’s best sellers, reappears decorated with shells or converted into a pair of boots.
Maria D. Valderrama
(c) EFE Agency
